Blog 11 Five feel frazzled and fraught in Chennai

Up at 5 with crow’s chorus, although my research shows the little b***ders only shut up for a brief hour or so all night. We set off for Chennai in a taxi at 6, witnessing just how many people are already up and about their business as we drive through the villages. Sekar tells us he gets up at 5 every day to open up the little shop they have in their home and to feed his daughter before she leaves for college in Vellore. His wife would prepare the full cooked breakfast too, none of your quick bowl of cereal. After a couple of hours on the road we need to stop for breakfast, so watch in amazement as the taxi driver crosses the central reservation of the two lane motorway and drives a hundred yards or so against the flow of traffic in order to park in front of desired restaurant. No wonder life in India is short and perilous.

Once we get to Chennai the fun really starts. I wouldn’t have thought it possible for the city to become even more choked and congested but over recent years without doubt the number of motor vehicles has increased enormously. Far fewer of the old rounded Hindustan cars too and many more modern ones. But of course the cows are still grazing the centre and verges of the road and amidst the increased prosperity there are still pavement- dwelling families. Finally we make it to the Balar Mandir Research Foundation, which was established in 1948 by a German woman Mrs Ellen Sharma, who was a pioneer in India of early childhood/kindergarten education. Now it has grown to be a huge site with an orphanage and schools going right from pre-school to higher secondary. They also have a resource centre where they sell wooden toys that are made on site. We visit the pre-school which seems really delightful. The ratio of children to teachers is at most 10 to 1A, and they are clearly learning through play and interaction with the adults, who seem to treat the children gently and with respect. In one class many of the children are wearing a uniform dress or shirt in red and green checked material and we learn that these are the orphanage children. The school serves primarily the poorest children in Chennai. The children certainly do seem happy and confident as they demonstrate a dance and songs they are preparing for a festival. Sekar teaches them a song and they are very quick to pick up words and actions.

From here we go to the resource centre and I am amazed and delighted to see the range of toys available. I go through the catalogue whilst Andy works out quickly what one of everything would cost. We pretty much buy everything and it costs £250. At this point Wendy and Pam and Brian announce that they wish to cover this cost, which is generous and great for our funds. It then takes an inordinate and Indian amount of time to pick and pack and wrap our purchases, during which all the party, especially the chaps, flag visibly and appear to be losing the will to live. However spirits are very much revived when we go to eat at a restaurant which serves food which you’d recognise from your local Indian takeaway. We even have icecream. Much as we enjoy eating locally in K V Kuppam, particularly when cooked by Selvi, it is like a small holiday to eat here.

From here we then venture again into the hellish Chennai traffic to go to Higginbothams book shop. I last visited this shop in 1991 during my first trip and it is an amazing institution- a leftover from the days of the Raj but at the same time extremely Indian in its chaos and convoluted way of working. I recognise the grey-haired woman who helps us from that first trip and tell her how helpful she was then- 18 years ago. She asks me to write a note to her boss to that effect and tells me a tale which seems to mean that they no longer appreciate her work.... Buy some books for school. Then on to a fabric shop where I make two purchases despite Andy the money-holder’s cunning plan to prevent this by staying in the vehicle.

After an exhausting trip home we finally get back around 11 at night. Poor Sekar still has to get back to his home and be up at 5 the next morning.