17th and 18th January 2019

17th and 18th January 2019
Imagine me right underneath the ceiling fan, set on the fastest setting, trying to think myself cool enough to sleep. 

Things are, as always happens about now, beginning to hot up, so the one cotton bed sheet is discarded and the fan will have to whirr all night. Still the locals look chilly and shroud themselves in blankets in the early morning, but our thermostats are set differently! I didn't blog yesterday because we needed to sleep early in order to be ready to set off today at 7.30 in our taxi to Kancheepuram and then Mamallipuram. It was yet another day of delicious special Pongal grub, this time at the home of Padmini who was our first teacher at Pachaikili preschool but who resigned three years ago having gained a school meals supervisor government job in the local primary school. Government jobs are always sought after, being secure and relatively well paid. She tells us that she still misses the pre school staff and children. Padmini is a delight, always full of beans and fun. Her younger daughter, now 11 and about to move on to secondary school, conversed enthusiastically with us in English. Her older sister is studying electronic engineering at college. Both are surely going to do well, like all the girls who live in this street, Om Shakti Coil street. 

Then yesterday evening we were invited to supper at the home of Dr Shanti and her husband. He, it appeared, had cooked the delicious meal, which was quite different from the South Indian fare we normally expect. It was more the sort of dishes usually eaten in the north, which is where they both come from. Also invited were a couple who work in the hospital, she a doctor from Kerala and he aba rather eccentric German chap who spoke little and rather cryptically, so that I really couldn't tell you much about what he does for employment. A pleasant evening of conversation and good food anyway. 

Now we are in Mammalapuram after a hot and tiring car journey. En route we stopped for coffee and breakfast idlee for our young driver, Gunnar, and Pam and I couldn't resist the first dosai of the trip, taken with coriander chutney and coconut chutney- a real treat! Next stop was Kancheepuram, famous for temples and silk saris. We visited two temples and learned from our guide in the second one that it was 1400 years old. Much of the carved statuary and decoration is in sandstone, some of which is remarkably well preserved.  He kept telling us names and relationships of the gods but please don't ask me to repeat them to you! I know Nanda the bull God is well represented, as also Shiva ( with the multiple arms, I think) and certainly Ganesh. 

On then to Mamallipuram on the coast, which three of us are familiar with from previous visits. It's very much part of the hippy trail - and yes, that trail does still exist in various regions of India. You can detect this very quickly by such signs as the presence of pale-skinned folk usually clad in flowing cotton outfits, often nipping about on scooters and to be found in one of the coffee and cake shops. Consequently also there are many people in shops or just walking along the seashore who will be trying their very best to sell you their cotton cloths/ real jewel necklaces/ batik paintings, etc etc We are ensconced at Daphne's hotel for two nights, a modest but very pleasant place in the middle of town. We've enjoyed pancakes and coffee at Joe's cafe and this evening Babu ( much recommended on Tripadviser) cooked me two small whole butterfish and chips-.delicious! This was at Babu's restaurant, and the others had cheese omelettes and chips. From which you may detect that we are all happy to take a small break from over-eating South Indian thali meals! 

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Devotees specially dressed to bring offerings and pray at the temple; plus our popularity ( with special ref to my hat) for selfies, shows no sign of abating! 

Cows, to be found everywhere in India, so perhaps as today on the motorway central reservatIon ( tethered of course!) or on the beach. Ditto Rick Stein, equally ubiquitous, but in his case all over the world.